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How to Get Rid of Rats in NYC

By The Expert Exterminating Team · Updated June 2026

Quick answer

To get rid of rats in NYC, lead with exclusion: seal every gap larger than about a quarter (around pipes, foundation cracks, vents, utility lines and under doors) with rodent-proof materials, then strip out the food and harbourage — open trash, clutter, weeds and burrows — and only then knock down the active population with tamper-resistant bait stations and snap traps placed on the runways. Killing rats without sealing how they get in just invites the next wave from the sewer, the yard or the building next door within weeks, because in NYC the food and the underground highways never run out.

The short answer

In NYC, getting rid of rats is exclusion first — seal how they get in, then knock the population down. New York’s Norway rats have endless food from trash and restaurants and connected underground highways through sewers, basements and yards, so baiting alone never holds: clear a colony without closing the doors and the next one moves in from next door within weeks. Seal every gap the size of a quarter, strip the food and harbourage, then trap and bait responsibly — and remember it’s usually a block-wide problem, not a one-apartment one.

Know your enemy: the NYC Norway rat

Almost every rat you’ll meet in New York is the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus) — a stocky, ground-dwelling burrower, not a climber. It lives in burrow systems under yards, stoops and parks, in basements and cellars, and along the sewer and subway lines that knit the city together. A single pair and their offspring can produce hundreds of rats in a year, and they range only a hundred feet or so from the burrow when food is close — which is why a restaurant’s waste or an un-bagged trash pile can sustain a colony right under one block.

Two traits drive everything about control:

  • They burrow and travel fixed runways. You’ll see the proof — 2-to-4-inch burrow holes with smooth, packed edges near the foundation, and greasy rub marks where their fur oils the wall along the same path every night.
  • They’re neophobic — wary of anything new. Drop a shiny snap trap or a fresh bait station into their world and they’ll avoid it for days. This is the single biggest reason DIY trapping “doesn’t work”: people give up before the rats commit. A pro expects it and pre-baits.

Why exclusion beats poison

The instinct is to put down bait and wait. But in NYC, killing rats without sealing the entries is a treadmill — the burrow, the sewer connection and the neighbour’s yard simply resupply the space. Worse, loose rodenticide has a real downside: a poisoned, slow-moving rat gets eaten by a red-tailed hawk, an owl, or a neighbour’s dog, and the poison moves up the food chain. NYC has documented raptor poisonings from exactly this. So the responsible approach is exclusion + trapping first, with tamper-resistant bait stations used carefully — never loose pellets, never poison as a substitute for closing the holes.

What actually works

  1. Inspect and read the signs. Map the burrows, runways, rub marks, gnaw damage and droppings before touching a trap. Fresh, soft, dark droppings mean active feeding; greyed, crumbly ones are old. (Full rundown: signs of rats in your NYC home.)
  2. Exclude — properly. Seal every gap a quarter could pass through with materials a rat can’t chew: steel wool packed into mortar, hardware cloth, sheet metal, concrete, door sweeps. Skip the foam-only patch — they gnaw straight through it. (How to rat-proof your NYC home.)
  3. Starve and clear them out. Trash in hard lidded bins (the reason behind the city’s containerization push), clutter and overgrowth cut back, pet food and birdseed picked up, old burrows collapsed. Take away food and cover and the rats either leave or take the bait.
  4. Knock down the survivors. Snap traps and tamper-resistant stations placed on the runways and at burrow mouths, pre-baited so the wary rats commit, all secured away from kids, pets and wildlife.
  5. Follow up and hold the line. Re-check in a couple of weeks: confirm the activity has stopped, that the seals are holding, and that nothing new has opened up.

It’s a block problem, and the city is part of it

Here’s the part DIY can’t fix: NYC rats are a block-wide animal. The burrow under your yard connects to the sewer, the empty lot, the restaurant cellar and the building next door. Seal your unit perfectly and the colony two doors down keeps the block populated. That’s why lasting control coordinates across the building and the property line — and why the city matters. Report persistent activity through 311; if you’re in one of the designated Rat Mitigation Zones, the Health Department already inspects proactively and can order owners to abate (see the NYC Rat Mitigation Zone guide and NYC rat laws).

When to call a professional

A single rat that wandered in, you might catch with snap traps and a sealed gap. But droppings in multiple rooms, burrows in the yard, rub marks along the basement, or any activity in a multi-unit building mean the source is beyond your apartment — and probably beyond your property line. Our rat & mouse control finds and seals the entry points DIY misses, baits responsibly, and coordinates the building-wide treatment that’s the only thing that actually ends it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are there so many rats in NYC?

New York gives Norway rats everything they need: dense housing with endless wall voids and basements, aging infrastructure and sewers that connect block to block, and a constant food supply from restaurant waste and street trash. The city logs on the order of tens of thousands of rat complaints to 311 every year. That abundance is exactly why exclusion — sealing how they get in — matters more than bait alone; remove a colony and the food and highways refill the space fast.

Does rat poison actually work — and is it safe?

Bait can knock down a population, but loose rodenticide carries a real cost: a poisoned rat is eaten by a hawk, owl or a neighbour's dog, and the poison moves up the food chain — NYC has documented raptor poisonings. A responsible exterminator uses tamper-resistant stations and leans on trapping, places product where only rats reach it, and never substitutes poison for sealing the entry points. Poison without exclusion is a treadmill.

Can rats make you sick?

Yes, though it's worth keeping in perspective. The CDC links rats to diseases including leptospirosis (spread through contact with rat urine — NYC has recorded human cases), rat-bite fever, and others, plus the asthma-aggravating allergens in their droppings. The practical takeaway: don't handle droppings dry (dampen and wear gloves), and treat a persistent infestation as a health issue, not just a nuisance. See [rat-borne diseases & health risks in NYC](/guides/rat-borne-diseases-and-health-risks-nyc/).

Is my landlord responsible for rats in NYC?

In rental housing, generally yes — owners must keep the building free of pests and address infestations, and the Health Department can issue a Commissioner's Order to Abate and summonses for failures. Report it to management in writing, and escalate through 311 if it isn't handled. See [NYC rat laws — landlord & tenant responsibilities](/guides/nyc-rat-laws-landlord-and-tenant-responsibilities/).

How long does it take to get rid of rats?

Plan on a few weeks, not a weekend. Rats' wariness of new objects (neophobia) means traps and stations often go untouched for the first several days, and you need that time to seal entry points and remove food properly. A typical program is an inspection and exclusion pass, a knockdown phase, and a follow-up to confirm the activity has stopped and re-entry is closed off. Heavy or block-wide problems take longer and need building-wide coordination.

What's the difference between rats and mice?

It changes the treatment. Mice are small, curious and nest indoors in large numbers, squeezing through a gap as small as a dime; rats are bigger, warier, burrow outdoors and in basements, and need larger gaps sealed. Mistaking one for the other wastes effort. See [rats vs mice — how to tell the difference](/guides/rats-vs-mice-how-to-tell-the-difference-nyc/).

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